Starting with the bride, so little 'graceful' in the normal way (or corny?) Of the term, you know who she is, Vivienne Westwood, the fashion monellaccia, the indomitable spirit that has made the revolution of punk and every day of his Life continues to be the last barricadera, even dictating the rules of the game of transgression (but the only wearable wife made it, marchettamente, for the film "Sex and The City"? mah ...).

Eclectic, dreamy, idealistic. Vivienne love the fact that he saw a revolution crumble, crushed by the bourgeois spirit that all of numbs and makes its own, creating less innocuous clones of the original (it was not so well for rock'n'roll, for grunge, for 'hip hop?). Vivienne Westwood has never bent to nothing and in this lies the secret of youth not only of his soul and his art, but also the ability to understand this crazy time we live and give it a face. According to the latest fall / winter 2012-2013, successfully presented at Paris Fashion Week, have returned to the volumes of the eighties, the years of cream.

The years of unconsciousness and recklessness, but we are well aware of all of us live in times when the crisis leaden tinge of its color everything it touches, like a King Midas in reverse ... but she is anything but a Westwood 'iconic beauty, indeed true warrior is inadequate. What you shake or long dresses with tartan drapes aerodynamic, is a strong woman and ready to fight. Independent, courageous, she expects no hero. She is his hero.

It is not a single woman, but only a creature aware that it's up to you to drive the last battle. How wonderful symbolic than his epaulettes eighties so sharp and impressive! It is no coincidence that we have seen a lot during this fashion week in Paris ready. We only hope that before you see them worn, because trendy (!) From mediocre fashion victim, wearing women with the spirit and personality to spare. Because this is their true meaning: nothing but a revival of the eighties. It is an invitation to arm themselves and go, each with their own talent. How many of you up the challenge?

During the week of the Paris pret a porter as we can not talk from Gareth Pugh? A really brilliant designer, one of the few who walk with courage and determination along the borderline dark side of fashion on the catwalk after presenting every sartorial masterpieces which are also symbols of a dream-haunted world. Black is definitely her color, as demonstrated during the last autumn / winter 2012-2013 was presented yesterday during Paris Fashion Week being held these days in the French capital.

Black as a nightmare, as black as ink, black women Valkyries, sublime creatures who do not belong to this world. Besides, the prêt à porter Pugh is definitely couture costume and almost, in the theatrical sense of the term, and the twentieth anniversary of the cult movie by Ridley Scott's "Blade Runner" can not imagine another costume that would be able to make sense with greater intensity of oppression and gloom that dominated the entire city of Los Angeles. But Gareth Pugh is not melancholy, but the expressive power of dark and surreal at the same time. Spleen has a natural cut-catching with its breathtaking, especially in tailored leather garments, women become heroines and comic book characters, perfect for Gotham City or Underworld.

The fur, then, with Gareth Pugh is much more than just a trend: haute couture was at its purest. Giant ruffles in contrasting capes that fall along the wild and primitive shoulders have something ethnic and tribal charms, as well as jackets that are a masterpiece of construction tailoring. Some even hide the face of the wearer, others have cut straps amazing spire, sharp and worthy of some alien princess.

The British designer, abandoned the catwalks of London, in Paris seeking a clearance officer who succeeds wonderfully, and some leaders, especially those in the skin have enticed buyers and industry professionals. Being borderline does not mean being out of the market, but only a symbol of a different aesthetic. Fortunately.

The fashion designers emerging every week are always being watched. Both for their design capabilities to that their ability to entertain, even with small, unexpected gestii. During the first day of Paris Fashion Week to be held in the French capital until next March 7, 2012, while awaiting the big names that have begun to withdraw from second day onwards, there has been a very curious episode.

During the parade of Anthony Vaccarello, the first brand to take off for Paris pret a porter, as well as very interesting, both for the autumn / winter 2012-2013 is presented because the young and talented Belgian designer has just announced it has begun a collaboration with the deluxe brand Giuseppe Zanotti. Known for its clean lines and its graphics wise, to hear Vaccarello definitely talking, we are sure.

Meanwhile, this will remain in the chronicles of one of his models during the fashion show finale, the one where all the models out on the runway, one at a time, taking wing to the designer who goes to collect the deserved applause and flashing cameras, the famous model Karlie Kloss, who was also on the catwalk did something very curious. She came out holding a digital camera with which he was making a video of people in the audience, their expressions, their gestures, then maybe for fun to see him with the designer.

Generally, the shows are all registered because they are an important archive material and often the public is still classified, so it's not clear why Karlie Kloss, who knows if with the permission of the designer (but probably yes if you want to continue working even for him), has made this gesture. Maybe he just wanted to say that the true spectacle of a parade, after all, is the people themselves and how they can feel free to scrutinize the models and judge the work of a designer outfit that sees through the exit on the catwalk, so can on the contrary. The designer considers the audience and the models to be judged become judges and are freed from the yoke that the media always wants actresses, or worse, appeared in the parade, with clothes protagonists.